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FIND OUT MOREChilling in Cologne
Christmas markets are now widespread throughout Europe, but Germany is where it all started, and the country still hosts the most famous markets in the world. Andrew Watson recommends a weekend jaunt to Cologne to kick back and enjoy the simple joys of Advent.
All images (c) www.koelntourismus.de.
Lying on the Rhine and dominated by its magnificent cathedral, Cologne is one of Germany's oldest cities, dating back to 38 BC. A lovely metropolis with a vibrant art and culture scene, it is transformed into a winter wonderland when its famous Christmas markets return at the end of November.
There are seven Christmas markets in Cologne, including four big ones at the Cologne Cathedral, Alter Markt, Neumarkt and Rudolfplatz. Every year, almost two million visitors flock to these four markets alone.
Most of the markets run from Nov 23 to Dec 23 and offer a combination of local arts and crafts, food and drink. From mulled wine and sugar-roasted almonds to handcrafted wooden toys and Christmas decorations, there is something here for everyone.
In addition to the opportunity to buy unique, handcrafted gifts and try delicious local specialities, the markets offer live music and street entertainment. There is also a temporary ice rink at Heumarkt, where you can burn some calories in style. Or you could just sit down with a beer and watch the world go by - life in Cologne seems refreshingly uncomplicated.
THE BIG FOUR
Cologne Cathedral
The market at the Cologne Cathedral is especially impressive because of its stunning backdrop. The massive Koelner Dom, the seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Cologne, is the city's most famous landmark, attracting more than six million visitors every year.
Construction of this stunning Gothic building started in 1248 and took more than 600 years to complete. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it boasts enormous twin spires, a magnificent medieval choir, exquisite 19th century stained glass windows and a number of important artefacts, including the world-famous Shrine of the Three Kings - the largest reliquary in the Western world. An impressive work of medieval gold craftsmanship, this is a sarcophagus that is believed to hold the remains of the Three Wise Men.
Some say it's a miracle that the cathedral survived World War II in spite of extensive bombing. The rest of Cologne was not so lucky; most of the ancient city centre was destroyed by Allied bombs.
Yet, Koelner Dom escaped with only minor damage and it continues to wow visitors today. Since 2007, in addition to its archaic treasures, the cathedral also houses a new window designed by legendary artist Gerhard Richter.
If you don't mind climbing up 509 steps, the 100-metre high platform of the cathedral's south tower offers great views of the city below.
From Nov 23, a Christmas market will take over the area in front of the cathedral. Beneath a gigantic Christmas tree, there will be more than 150 traditional wooden pavilions selling everything from mulled wine to arts and crafts.
Alter Markt
There was not much left of the old town after World War II, but it has been carefully reconstructed and now features a number of beautiful buildings and narrow cobbled streets, making a stroll around Alter Markt a very pleasant experience.
The area, which is full of cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops and a scattering of ancient Roman remains, is especially lively during Advent, when its fabulous Christmas market returns in front of the old town hall.
A firm favourite with kids, the Alter Markt Christmas Market features an old-style children's roundabout, a puppet theatre, a Santa's grotto and a myriad of toy stands.
Neumarkt
Situated in the city centre's shopping district against the backdrop of the Church St Aposteln - one of the most beautiful of Cologne's Romanesque churches - Neumarkt hosts Cologne's oldest Christmas market.
The mood is especially nostalgic here, with historic decorations and candlelight transporting visitors back to yesteryear as they stroll from stall to stall.
With dozens of local artisans selling original creations, you won't have a problem finding unique Christmas gifts for your loved ones.
Rudolfplatz
Just a stone's throw from Neumarkt, Rudolfplatz hosts the wonderful Christmas Fairytale Market.
Against the backdrop of the medieval Hahnentorburg - one of the old gatehouses in Cologne's former city wall - large fairy tale figures, festive illuminations and aromas of mulled wine, candy floss, warm chestnuts and sweets provide a magical atmosphere.
SMALLER MARKETS
Also worth checking out is the Medieval Christmas Market outside the Chocolate Museum Cologne (Schokoladenmuseum Koeln) on the banks of the Rhine.
Located in the heart of the city centre, the museum takes visitors on an expedition through 3,000 years of chocolate history, from the 'food of the gods' of the Aztecs to the modern industrial product. There are no Oompa Loompas or rivers of chocolate here, unfortunately, but you can learn how chocolate is made, enjoy a free sample and take part in interactive activities.
Once you come out of the museum, just follow you nose to the Medieval Christmas Market, which starts on Nov 27. The scents of roasted wild boar, fresh bread and mulled wine waft from the stalls, where traders dressed in historic costume proudly present their wares.
The Floating Christmas Market onboard a river boat offers a completely different experience. From Nov 26 you can have a glass of mulled wine and buy your Christmas presents as you sail down the Rhine on the MS Wappen von Mainz, enjoying great views and live music.
A new addition to Cologne's Christmas markets is the Stadtgarten Christmas Market (from Nov 26), which is located on the edge of the city's oldest park. Here you will find traditional local food, arts and crafts, plus a great choice of children's entertainment.
BEYOND THE MARKETS
Cologne is home to dozens of museums and hundreds of galleries, putting it high up on the list of places to visit for culture vultures. Check out the famous Romano-Germanic Museum (Roemisch-Germanisches Museum), which features art and architecture from the city's past, and the Museum Ludwig for an impressive collection of modern art.
If you have time, you can also stroll along the Rhine and take in magnificent riverside vistas. Take some time to observe the locals - they seem to have a talent for taking it easy, which can be contagious.
When the sun goes down, Cologne's young population comes out to play. Join them in the nightclub-studded side streets between Friesenplatz and Rudolfplatz, in the trendy district of Ehrenfeld, or in the student dives of the Latin Quarter (Kwartier Lataeng).
Cologne is famous for its beer, Koelsch. A light, top-fermented beer, real Koelsch is only brewed in Cologne, and the best place to enjoy it is at one of the numerous brewery taverns all around the picturesque Altstadt. Have it with a generous serving of sausage and chips.
Before leaving the city, make sure you buy some original Eau de Cologne - another world-famous Cologne product dating back to the 1700s - to take home with you.
WHERE TO STAY
At the top end of the scale, Le Meridien Dom Hotel (www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien) is a luxury bolthole overlooking the Cologne Cathedral, just a short walk from the Rhine.
A more affordable and hugely popular option is the 3-star Hotel Domstern (www.domstern.com), which is conveniently located on a quiet side street just a ten-minute walk away from the main train station and the cathedral.
HOW TO GET THERE
Germanwings (www.germanwings.com) offers regular low-cost flights from Manchester to Cologne. For a range of other flights from Manchester to Cologne visit www.manchesterairport.co.uk.